Slow Travel in Tsugaru — 3 Days, 2 Nights at an Onsen Ryokan Beneath Mt. Iwaki

Travel to Hirosaki by private vehicle. At Hirosaki Apple Park, home to around 65 varieties of apples, you can pick apples and enjoy them fresh from the orchard. At the park’s “kimori” workshop, you can also sample cider made with local apples. The orchards also offer views of Mt. Iwaki in the background, making this a great spot for photos.

In the afternoon, head to Mt. Iwaki, also known as “Tsugaru Fuji.” The Tsugaru-Iwaki Skyline, with its 69 consecutive hairpin curves, climbs to the eighth station, where you can continue to the ninth station by lift. At the top, enjoy panoramic views of the Tsugaru Plain, apple orchards, and even the Sea of Japan on a clear day. The foliage typically peaks between late September and early October near the eighth station and summit, and around mid-October along the Skyline and the mountain’s lower slopes.

Check in at the ryokan in the late afternoon and take some time to unwind in its natural hot springs. Guests staying in a room with a private open-air bath can enjoy the onsen in the privacy of their own room. In the evening, enjoy a seasonal kaiseki dinner featuring the flavours of Tsugaru, followed by a live Tsugaru shamisen performance at the ryokan. After your first day of exploring, spend the rest of the evening relaxing at the ryokan.

Set out by private vehicle early in the morning and arrive at Shirakami-Sanchi, a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site, during the quieter hours of the day. In Nishimeya Village, take a guided walk through the beech forests and explore the natural surroundings of this protected area. You will also visit Lake Tsugaru-Shirakami, surrounded by mountains and forests. Depending on the season and weather conditions, a canoe experience on the lake can also be arranged.

After lunch, head into the castle town of Hirosaki. Visit Hirosaki Castle, whose keep has survived since the Edo period, and the Hirosaki Museum of Contemporary Art, located in a renovated brick warehouse that was once used for sake and cider production and is also associated with contemporary artist Yoshitomo Nara. In the tea room of a Western-style heritage building, you can also sample and compare different apple pies from Hirosaki.

Return to the inn by early evening and spend the rest of the day at your own pace. Relax in the large bath made with fragrant Aomori Hiba cypress or soak in the outdoor bath while enjoying views of the surrounding autumn foliage. If you are staying in a room with a private open-air bath, you can also enjoy the onsen from the comfort of your own room. Afterwards, unwind in the lounge and enjoy a quiet evening at the ryokan. Since you will be staying for a second night, there is no need to pack or move to another hotel.

On the final morning, take a stroll around the ryokan and visit the nearby Iwakiyama-jinja Shrine, located at the foot of Mt. Iwaki. Enjoy some time exploring the peaceful surroundings before continuing your journey.

Continue by private vehicle to Kuroishi City, where you will explore Nakamachi Komise-dori, a traditional street lined with well-preserved buildings that reflect the city’s history. From there, head to Nakano Momijiyama, one of the region’s best-known autumn foliage spots. Maple trees brought from Kyoto more than 200 years ago create vibrant shades of red and gold, typically from late October to early November.

After lunch in the Kuroishi or Hirosaki area, your journey comes to an end in the afternoon at Shin-Aomori Station, where you can continue your trip by Shinkansen.

*Alternative drop-off locations can also be arranged upon request.